School Bus Conversion Paint Job (Part 4)

Bus conversion paint

Painting the lines on in a random empty parking lot.

Bus conversion paint

 

This closed down Safeway parking lot in Portland, OR made for a good RV rest stop. This is also the same lot I used to make the penny countertop.  The lesson from this is to get creative if a traditional parking space isn’t available for your schoolie project.

Bus conversion paint

 

Fifth coat on the blue lines. Got the desired coverage.

Bus conversion paint

 

I didn’t wait too long to peel the tape off after completing the final coat. This also gives you a chance to scrape away paint that dripped under the tape.

Bus conversion paint

 

The Blue masking tape peeled off well. There was only one spot where the white paint peeled away with the tape.

Bus conversion paint

 

Prepping the bumpers for black paint.

Bus conversion paint

 

I used a small four-inch roller for the bumpers. Two coats and the bumpers were done. I could also lay the paint on  thick without worrying about the surface below.

Bus conversion paint

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Click here to see the how the wheel wells are covered and the unfinished cabinet installed.

 

4 replies
  1. Constance
    Constance says:

    Thank you for sharing your entire process. It was very helpful and informative. I will be refurbishing a 1971 Dodge Travco and need this kind of detail to assist in a smooth project finish. I was especially impressed with the details on the floor, walls, and bathroom install. My new home is gutted right now and I am planning on a minimalistic interior with nothing but the must haves.

    I saw a young couple use recycled wood pallets for their floor. It took a great deal of work to collect and prepare the wood, but the end result was stunning. My main concern is weight. I want to get as many miles per gallon as possible.

    The paint job was also really nice. I’m not sure if your process would work on a fiberglass body. What do you think? Also, did you drill through the body of the bus to screw in your floor and wall boards? If so, did you use pointed screws or snub nose? If not, did you glue the boards as well as screw them together crossways? I look forward to hearing back from you and seeing your updates.

    • Michael
      Michael says:

      Hi Constance,
      Thank you for the positive words! Glad the site is helpful. That motivates me to keep adding all the content.

      The pallet wood floor sounds nice and would be unique. Maybe weigh one piece of wood then crunch the numbers on your square footage to get an estimate of how much more the pallet material would weigh compared with traditional materials.

      I’m not sure about the paint job on fiberglass. You would probably have to use a marine paint like Brightsides. But the same paint thinning process may allow you to get same nice finish as the Rustoleum roll on paint job.

      I did predrill the floor.Then used pointed screws that were just long enough to make it through the material and get a good grip. I had some early paranoia about the screws hitting something vital. But turned out to be plenty of clearance. Some screws tips that should be ground down from underneath to reduce injury risk while working on the bus.

      Thanks again! Don’t forget to subscribe to the newsletter to stay updated.

  2. Constance
    Constance says:

    Michael,

    Thanks for the response. I just saw another video on YouTube where someone demonstrated the use of foam and wire mesh combination to make sturdy, but lightweight cabinets and wall covering. Something you might want to look into. Here’s the link, if you’re interested…..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucf2FVIdr1Q

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